Tag Archives: Tourtour

A Tourtour de Force

There are so many reasons I love summer, not least of which is the yearly voyage to Tourtour. A small but vibrant medeival town, it is perfectly preserved and always seems unchanged. Although I’d find out it can still surprise me sometimes.

A day in Provence doesn’t really start until you’ve had breakfast. It’s not a fussy meal. It’s simple.

Breakfast in France

Croissants do not exist to me outside of France. But once I’m here, they become my daily vice.

I find they’re best served outdoors, on the terrace overlooking the jardin.

Breakfast in France Jardin

After breakfast, I bound down the steps to the pool where I can conk out on a warm sunlounger.

Tourtour Pool

Poolside essentials

That is, provided I don’t have any interruptions…

Poolside terror

Poolside Walk Chess

After a few hours wilting in the sun, punctuated with occasional dips in the water and games by the pool, I get restless and insist upon a walk up to the village.

J’adore the quaint simplicity of this picture-perfect hilltop town. The appeal to tourists can’t be helped, but Tourtour somehow maintains its whimsical authenticity.

Tourtour walk window

Tourtour walk

Tourtour town

Tourtour town walking

Tourtour town fountain

Tourtour stoop

Tourtour Eddie

We freshen up before heading down the windy road to Aups, where we have a courtyard table booked for dinner.

It was a steal of a meal – summer vegetable carpaccio, BBQ prawns with rice, and dessert – for 19,50€.


Dinner Salad

Dinner Gambas

When we returned to Tourtour after dinner, we were shocked to encounter a “Soiree Mousse” (yes, that’s a raving frothy foam party) going full swing in the town square. The dance area was crammed with sudsy revellers, the DJ spinning throbbing Euro techno music while lasers grazed over the crowd, and scanitly-clad dancers jutted and swerved onstage.

Foam Party

Foam Dancer

Huge soap cannons blasted everyone with a spray of foam.

It was too bizarrely tempting not to jump in and join the fun!

Foam Spray

Foam Hands

Foam Soaked

Foam Throw

What a weird but cheerful bash!

I now love this place even more.

Tourtour: Le Village dans le Ciel

It was too overcast for the pool today so we walked up into the village. Tourtour is known as “the village in the sky” because of its stunning views from the top. We meandered through the streets climbing our way up to the the square.



Mayor's Office, Town Hall

Mayor’s Office, Town Hall




We passed by the Moulin a Huile, where the villagers bring their olives to be weighed and pressed into olive oil.  Tourtour has a cooperative system where the oil is distributed on a pro-rata basis depending on how many kilos of olives each villager contributes.


Making olive oil is a two-step process of grinding and pressing. First, the olives are placed under the stones and squashed to make a paste. The olive miller then collects the paste and puts it into jute baskets.

For the pressing, two piles of about 20 jute baskets are placed, one on top of the other, under the press. The first pressing is “cold,” then the baskets are soaked in hot water before the second pressing.

Olive Press

Olive Press



Olive oil features a lot in Provençal cooking, including many of the restaurants and cafés in the leafy town square. Tourtour also boasts a few galleries and boutiques.




I wanted to take this dapper furball home but he was 320 euros!

I wanted to take this dapper little furball home but he was 320 euros!

Instead, I splurged on this little black number (to wear to the beach this week) from the prêt à porter boutique, Florence.




We stopped at a café by the fountain to revive ourselves with a cold citron pressé – freshly squeezed lemon juice, which you can water down a little bit, add a teensy pinch of sugar to sweeten it up, stir and enjoy!




This handsome pup kept cool as a cucumber under our café table and begged me to throw him his slobbery pinecone – which he kept retrieving and laying at my sandals again and again. I think I finally wore him out!

Our final ascent was up to the village chapel perched on the hilltop where we could look down on the gorgeous Var landscape below.



church1 hill

Good thing the way home is all downhill!

The Simple Life

Sometimes you just need a pool day. Lathering up with sun cream and laying out in the golden heat until your brain gets fuzzy. It’s like therapy for me.


In the afternoon, it’s back up to the house for lunch on the terrace overlooking the rolling Provençal terrain.










Afterwards, I make myself swim sets of twenty laps to burn off all the cheese and paté!




I don’t drink alcohol in the day. With the sun’s heat, I find it’s just too much. Instead, we usually wait until dusk and enjoy a drink or two before dinner watching the sun slip down behind the mountains.







Eddie n Me



Spending time here reminds me to savor life’s simple pleasures: warm sun on tanned skin, the bliss of getting absorbed in a good book, the shock of hot skin plunging into a pristine pool, the juicy zing of a ripe melon, a gauzy linen shirt wafting in the summer breeze. This is French summer – wholehearted and pure.