In this here-today-gone-tomorrow world, pop-up restaurants have never been more relevant. The supper club scene has been emerging in American cities for a while now, but pop-ups are an original British invention. Those clever Brits…
In London, pop-ups can be achingly cool, spontaneous spots that have that irresistible allure of their limited availability. Simon Rogan’s Roganic closes this June after a two year residency on Blandford Street in Marylebone.
The design is sparse and the space is compact. There is no à la carte. Dinner is a set 10 courses – or vegetarian, if so inclined. The wine list – mostly sourced from Roberson’s – was so suburb I can’t not mention it.
Langoustine on crispy rye with langoustine ash | Smoked quail croquants on a bed of singed hay
Creamed butter served on a stone | Selection of bread rolls
Garden peas, shaved beef tongue, mint and sugar snaps
Purple-sprouting broccoli, buttermilk, toasted barley and fennel crest
Salsify, fermented apple foam and sunflower seeds
Raw mackerel in coal-infused oil, rye crisps, yogurt, radish and ox-eye daisy
Sharpes express potatoes, onion ash and lovage
Scallop with its coral, carrot chips, carrot puree and sea campion
Bacon and bread crusted monkfish tail, mussels and broad beans
Sweet cheese, packed pear, pine and malt
Carrot cake with carrot sauce and honey jelly
Seriously in love with this Oregon pinot!
The service was that particular type of perfection that balances total knowledge with an informal approach. Like you’re not going to be intimidated by a seasoned wine expert who is wearing coral-coloured trousers with no belt – but the guy knew his stuff! You could ask anything about the ingredients or the preparation, and you received an answer delivered with complete confidence – never once did a server leave me waiting “one moment, while I check with the kitchen.”
For a pop-up, most impressed.